I am sitting at the edge of Baja’s San Ignacio Lagoon, on a rocky outcrop — Punta de Piedra — at sunset. Swaths of tangerine and blood orange streak the deep blue sky. The only sound is that of gray whales frolicking in the shallow waters before us, the thunderous spray and whoosh of their exhales and percussive crashing from their breaches. It is a spectacle like no other. The silhouettes of the Sierra San Francisco mountains rise to the north, a giant sand dune draws the eye, illuminated by the fading yellow sunlight and a vast sea stretches out before me. Undoubtedly, this is my favorite place on earth — I’ve been coming to San Ignacio Lagoon each February for years to commune with the grays, always drawn by the promise of their return. . . CLICK TO READ MORE